The printer tracks printing statistics. When you access this option during a print, you will see statistics for the running print. If you do so while the printer is idle, you will see the total statistics. Both filament usage and print time are tracked.
You can find Initialize error option the LCD Menu -> Initialize error. The data can be easily reset once you do a Factory reset.
Running out of filament
If you run out of filament, the printer will automatically pause the print, move the X-carriage away from the print and prompt you to unload the remaining few centimeters of the material from the heatbreak and replace the spool and insert a new filament.
The printer will guide you how to resume printing safely:
"Please press the knob to unload the filament" = Press the knob to unload the remaining few centimeters of the filament.
"Repeat unloading filament? [Yes/No] = If everything went well, press [Yes]. If not, then press [No]. The printer will lock the x-axis motor and will allow you to open the extruder idler to clear the remains of the filament manually.
"Insert filament and press the knob" = Make sure to insert the same type of filament, cut the tip of the filament and insert the filament and press the knob.
"Changed correctly?" [Yes/Filament not loaded/Color not clear] = If everything went fine and the new filament is coming out nicely (and has the right color), simply press [Yes]. If you think that the filament was not loaded properly, press [Filament not loaded], which will push through the same amount of filament as before. If the color is not clear, then press [Color not clear], this way it will push through only a bit of filament.
The printer can fully recover from a complete loss of power without the need for batteries or a UPS. A special sensor detects mains voltage, and in case of an interruption, it immediately shuts down the heatbed and extruder heating, leaving enough power in the capacitors to store the position and lift the print head away from the print. In case of a very short power failure, the printer will attempt to continue printing immediately without waiting for user interaction.
Resuming the print
When the power comes back, the printer will give you an option to continue the print. Keep in mind that during extended periods without power, the bed will cool down and the printed object can detach itself from the sheet plate. So, before resuming the process, check the following:
The contents of the SD card in the SV01 printer are updated in the order of time on the LCD screen. The earlier the Gcode file is imported, the later the file location will be. The newly imported Gcode file will be placed at the top of the printer file option.
The printer's firmware and display type determine the number of displays. What we limit the SV02 touch screen is to select only the first 20 files sorted by time. Different displays with different configurations.
This Guide is designed for Sovol users to start their printing journey.
We still recommend that please read this guide even if you are familiar with the 3d Printing technology, as there are lots of important information about the sovol for you to get a better 3d experience.
Official website: www.sovol3d.com
Find out all the latest news which contains up-to-date information concerning software, firmware, device maintenance, and so on.
Sovol Official User Group on Facebook.
Be a part of the Sovol community sharing your projects and helping each other.
You may also want to learn：
We're the designers and manufacturers of the SV01, and we're here to help! Please don't hesitate to contact us directly.
This image marks the main components of SV01.
When the customer opens the box after receiving the SVO1 3D printer, you will see the accessories in the picture.
Steps 1 Remove the parts from the box.
Steps 2 Install the gantry (A) to the base (B).
Steps 3 - Install the filament spool holder.
Step 4 Install the filament sensor.
Step 5 Install the Lcd screen.
Steps 6 Install the Z limit switch
Step 7 Make connections
Sovol printers are pre-assembled at the factory, however, to obtain the best print quality, some adjustments must be made.
Eccentric nut adjustments.
Belt adjustments.
| Not Printing (Sovol ready) | ||
| Menu | Sub Menu | Explanation |
| Prepare | Move Axis | Moving X, Y, Z axis or Extruder by imputing |
| Auto Home | Return to Zero | |
| Disable Steppers | Close motors and move X, Y, Z axis by hands | |
| Preheat Pla Preheat Abs | Preheat hotend, bed or both at the preset temperature | |
| Cooldown | Turn off the heaters | |
| Control | Temperature | Heats hotend and bed, fan speed or set the preset Pla/Abs preheat entering a value |
| Store Settings | Save the modified configuration in memory | |
| Initialize EEPROM | Restore factory settings | |
| No Card/ Print TF | No card in the printer/ Print from TF card | |
| PRINTING | ||
| Menu | Sub Menu | Explanation |
| Tune | Speed | It allows to modify: print speed, fan speed, nozzle temperature, bed temp. and filament flow while printing |
| Nozzle Bed | ||
| Fan Speed | ||
| Flow | ||
| Pause | Pause printing, resume | |
| Stop | Stop printing | |
Run the sequence to level
Slide a paper between the bed and nozzle
Level the four corners of the bed
Tip: The Z-axis motors are also disabled. So you should handle the print head gently keeping it fiat during the leveling process. If you put too much pressure, you will lose the initial Z position obtained with Auto Home getting an invalid leveling.
Heat the nozzle
Insert the filament into the extruder
1, Install Cura
2, Open Cura and add a New Printer
3, Adjust the size
4, Configure retraction
Step1 Load a model in Cura
On the SD card, you will find a calibration cube so you can perform an initial test.
Step2 Choose settings
Cura has a menu with basic print settings. If you want advanced settings, click Custom.
Step3 Make the Slice
Cura will perform the necessary calculations and generate a Gcode file with the paths and parameters for the printer.
Step4 Save the Gcode file to the card
Use the USB reader provided with the printer.
Step5 Print the model
Insert the SD card upside down in the printer, select the Gcode file in the menu and print.
BLTouch is an optional device for automatic leveling. Installation requires the disassembly of the printer base and the firmware update.
BLTouch device assembly
Download Firmware
Update the Firmware from Cura
The Selftest procedure checks the following:
Progress and results of each step are displayed on the LCD screen. In case the process runs into an issue, the LCD screen will display an error message. All errors are described below.
Selftest error messages:
Extruder & Print fan test:
Heatbed & Hotend test
Loose belt pulley test
Filament sensor test
Troubleshooting
First, you need to remove the filament from the extruder. To do that, open the idler door located on the right side of the extruder by unscrewing the screw(s) on the opposite (left) side (the one/s with the spring on them). Now you can manually remove the filament using the supplied pliers.
Slicing
Slice the model again using the latest version of slicer software and see if the model is not corrupted or incomplete. The setting profile for the printer are available in sovol official user group
Idler tension
Make sure that your extruder idler is properly tightened. If the extruder idler screws are overtightened, the gears will not push the filament properly. Try to loosen (or tighten) the extruder idler screw(s) (with the spring). Their tension must be accurate (neither too tight nor too loose)
Drive gears alignment
Double-check the alignment of the extruder gears. Both of them must be aligned with the opening above and with the PTFE tube below so that they can properly feed the filament into the hot end. Make sure the gear on the extruder motor shaft is tightened by its grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis.
Dirty extruder gears
Make sure that your extruder gears are clear of any leftover plastic. You can clear the plastic with a sharp corner of pliers or with a durable pin.
Make sure the gears are turning freely
Check if the motor gear is aligned and tightened with the grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis
Cables
Undo the wrap protecting the extruder cables and check whether the cables are not damaged. Also, please unplug all of the extruder cable connectors, check for any potential damage, crooked pins, or similar.
Jammed PTFE tube
While checking the extruder gears, take a look at the PTFE tube as well and make sure no debris in it would prevent the filament from being loaded properly. To inspect the PTFE tube, open the extruder idler door.
Hotend assembly
Verify, whether the nozzle is properly assembled into the heater block:
check if the heater block and the nozzle are tightened.
is there a space of 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) between the nozzle head and the heater block as it should be?
Clogged hotend
Please follow this video on sovol youtube channel to clean your hotend, as the hotend might be clogged. If you don't manage to clean clog, you would have to take out the hotend from the extruder, disassemble it completely, clean it thoroughly and apply some extra thermal paste on the heatbeak before assembling the hotend back together.
Check if there are some materials in the fan (there are fans on the extruder and fan on the power supply.)
Factory reset can be used during troubleshooting to wipe configuration data from the device's memory quickly and easily.
Click initialize error on the menu.
Before we start checking your Print fan, power down and unplug your USB cable is connected. Open the electronics covering and examine Sovol3D SV01 electronics wiring.
Make sure that the fan is:
Plugged into the right location
Plugged in with the proper connector orientation
Plugged in completely and making good electric contact
You can easily test the print fan function from the LCD menu Settings - Temperature - Fan speed. Always test with at-least 50% power. When you select the speed, confirm by pressing the knob.
When the print fan should spin up
The print fan is never used during the first layer of any material. From the second layer up, it depends on the material profile selected in the slicing software. For example with PLA, the print fan is running at 100% all the time until the print finishes. For ABS, the fan is turned off by default in our print settings.
Before we start checking your Print fan, power down and unplug your USB cable is connected. Open the electronics covering and examine Sovol3D SV01 electronics wiring.
Make sure that the fan is:
Plugged into the right location.
Plugged in with the proper connector orientation.
Plugged in completely and making good electric contact.
If this occurs it indicates a problem with the BL-touch sensor. It is the Z-axis end-stop on the hotbed. It accurately detects metal within a certain range, so if the nozzle crashes into the bed the bl-touch is either adjusted too high concerning the nozzle, or the sensor itself or its cable may be faulty.
Testing the bl-touch sensor
If the bl-touch sensor, or more commonly its cable, is damaged the following test will help you determine whether it is faulty or not:
Raise the Z-axis about 10 cm above the heatbed (this is just to keep the bl-touch sensor clear of any metal).
Move the extruder from one side to another - the values should not change and the red light should stay on.
Hold something metallic (like a spatula or screwdriver) under the bl-touch sensor - The bl-touch sensor-value should change from 0 to 1 and the light should go off.
If the bl-touch sensor checks out it is probably just set too high. Continue reading to resolve this.
Lower the bl-touch sensor, Lower the bl-touch sensor by 1-2 threads, or redo the pre-flight check, where you use the thin tip of the zip-tie instead of the thicker center.
If your Heatbed does not heat up, there are a couple of things you can check to identify the source of the issue.
See if the temperature on the display is abnormal.
So please check the following common issues:
Check that your Heated bed thermistor is properly attached under the Golden Kapton tape.
Open the electronics covering and examine electronics wiring.
Heatbed Heater vs. Thermistor test
The best and easiest way is to take a hairdryer and blow hot air at the Heatbed. During this process, just check if there is any temperature change on the LCD. If there is a change it means your thermistors are working. If there is no change at all, your thermistor is defective.
IPA Test = uneven heating
To see whether the surface is heating properly or at all, we suggest wiping down the heat bed surface with Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) cold and then preheating. The alcohol will evaporate when heated, exposing areas that are not heating at all.
Loss of power = slow preheat process
Remove the printed cover at the back left of the heated bed and check the following.
Damaged Heated bed cables at any spot.
PSU cables properly attached to the board and not damaged at any spot.
Measuring resistance:
Please try the following if you have access to a multimeter to get some data to see if the heatbed components are out of spec or potentially problematic.
The resistance of the heated bed thermistor should be approximately 100K at room temperature (same goes for the thermistor on the hot end if you are curious!)
The resistance of the heated bed should be 1 Ohm(don't worry if the resistance oscillates around the mentioned value)
Clicking Extruder, under-extrusion, and clogging
The extruder clicking is the sound of the extruder-motor snapping back, unable to push the filament through the hotend, having clogged.
There are 4 things to check in case the extruder is clicking or under-extrusion:
1, A clogged nozzle
Remove the Bowden-tube, between the extruder and the heat-sink, and check if filament can be pushed through the nozzle by hand, when pre-heated.
Use the supplied acupuncture-needle to loosen the clog.
Do 1-3 Cold pulls
2, Dirty extruder filament-pulley
Open the inspection-hatch, behind the Z-axis, to reveal the filament pulley. Make sure this is not full of plastic residue obstructing it getting a grip on the filament.
You can adjust the tension of the idler on the springed-screw, located right bellow the PTFE-tube. With the filament removed, the screw head should be level/flush with the plastic part.
3, Extruder-idler
Make sure that filament can pass through the Bowden-tube without much force. Too much tension on the idler can deform the filament and cause greater resistance.
You can adjust the tension of the idler on the springed-screw, located right bellow the PTFE-tube, circled. With the filament removed, the screw head should be level/flush with the plastic part.
4, Hotend PTFE-tube and Heatbreak
If the heatbreak is too far down, it can have slipped in shipping or been installed too low, you will get issues with heat-creep and the printer will clog up. Also, if there is any space, inside the heat break, above or below the PTFE-tube, you will have the same issues.
Setup:
Check that there is no filament in the bottom of the heat break. Use the light from the top - It should be clean and you should only see shiny metal.
Procedure:
SD card not working
Our printers offer two popular ways of printing: via a USB cable or by loading 3D models from an SD card. If you are experiencing SD-card-related issues, try some of our tips below.
"Card removed" message on the LCD screen
If you have inserted your SD card into the SD card slot and the printer's LCD screen still says "Card removed", try the following steps:
SD cards and USB flash drives
As there are ways of remotely transferring files and starting prints, an SD-card or USB flash drive is the most common and reliable way to get your files to your machine. Though common and convenient, flash-memory is not the most reliable in itself and your storage can be corrupted or fill up without any obvious signs. Therefore, we have put together a small guide on how to maintain, format and purchase memory
Make sure your SD card is not locked!
The SD card has a latch on the side. Before using your SD card, make sure that the latch is not set to the Locked position. In case it is locked, you will not be able to save files on the card, and the printer will not be able to open the SD card.
Size - I want more!
All of our SV01 printer have their storage-cap set by the infrastructure of the system. Therefore the max capacity of your SD-card or USB stick is 32GB. No point in purchasing any memory for your machine larger than this. 8-16GB is more than enough more most use-cases, as a Gcode file rarely supersede 100mb. Also, a single Gcode-file larger than 512mb can not be read by the machine, but we have yet to see any file reach that size.
Can't I just print through the USB-plug on the printer?
Yes, you can, BUT... USB-connections offer much lower data-rates than flash memory, and printer can end up printing much slower or pause, waiting for data to be received. and you must also have your computer connected for the entire duration of the print. We, therefore, recommend printing from an external media.
It's full or corrupted - How do I format the SD-card?
If your SD-card or USB-drive is full or if you can't read the content of the drive, but the drive is recognized by windows, most often all you need to do is to format the drive.
How to format on Windows
How to format on Mac OSX
LCD screen not working
The LCD screen is vital for operating the printer. Should you encounter any kind of trouble, such as a dead screen, corrupted text, or other issues, please refer to the guide below.
1, The line of the touch screen is loose
Please refer to Sovol3D SV01 User Manual Guide to re-plug the screen wiring.
2, Fuse burned out
Check if the fuse is blown.
If yes, pls replace the fuse.
3, Motherboard problem
Change the jumper cap of the motherboard from DC to USB. Test the motherboard through USB power supply and check if the touch screen is normal. If the display is normal, the fuse of the motherboard is broken. It is recommended to replace the motherboard.
Check whether the mainboard voltage is normal
4, The power supply problem
Please check if the voltage of the power port on the motherboard has 24V.
Please check if the power is normal.
5, Display problem
Please try to print through connection to the computer. If the printing is successful, the display is faulty. It is recommended to replace the display.
6, The screen freezes and no response occurs when clicked
Machine's card slot problem
A. Unplug the SD card and restart the machine to see if the touch screen is back to normal.
B. If there is still a freezing problem after replacing the SD card, please try online printing. If there is no problem with online printing, the machine card slot needs to be replaced.
Screen problem
Please try to print through connect to the computer. If the printing is successful, the display is faulty. It is recommended to replace the display.
The printer does not turn on or keeps turning off
If your printer doesn't turn on, or it keeps turning off during preheating, the most common causes are either a wrong voltage on the PSU or a blown fuse.
The printer does not turn on
If your printer does not turn on at all, then there might be a more serious problem present. Try the following steps:
If your printer happens to power off during the initial preheating process, there's usually no serious damage. Most likely you just have the voltage switch set to 220V a 110V power environment.
Checking status-LED on the PSU
Turn on the machine and find the shell is charged
No ground wire
Power supply problem
The filament sensor doesn't work correctly
Firmware error
Loose connection of sensor
Filament sensor or motherboard problem
Filament Not Loading
If the filament is not loaded into the extruder, yet the printer is trying to pull the filament inside. It is usually a simple hardware problem, which we will fix in this article.
Ideal preparation checklist:
Note: Make sure that you are using proper nozzle temperatures.
Mechanical problems:
The power supply is abnormal
Motherboard is abnormal
The heating rod is abnormal
Loose wiring
The extruder does not rotate normally
Nozzle blockage
Preheating the PLA, press the clamp of the extruder with one hand, and push the filament into the machine with the other hand to observe whether the silk is smooth, thickness, uniform. the method to solve blockage is as follows:
1, The golden gear is not fixed well
2, Cable and pin failure, Check the cable and motor pins for damage.
3, The voltage of the motor drive problem
4, Motor drive problem
5, Motherboard's motor drive port is damaged
Leveling is normal, the hotbed will be scratched when printing
Z-axis limit switch problem
The looseness of the z-axis limit switch screw on the frame causes the z-axis height to change, needs to tighten the screws.
Note: Generally, Printing will not scratch the hotbed after leveling unless leveling is not done properly.
Print model problem
Print too fast, please try to print the test model.
Unstable print head temperature
Observe whether the temperature of the print head fluctuates greatly during printing the official test model. If the fluctuation is large, you need to replace the print head.
The filament does not adhere to the printing platform
Note: The filament Damp or air leakage expired also does not adhere to the printing platform.
The hotbed does not heat
The hotbed wiring on the motherboard is loose
Hotbed is abnormal
Motherboard is abnormal
The power supply is abnormal
Firmware error
Poor welding of hotbed cable leads to short circuits.
Check if the hotbed cable is poorly soldered. If the welding is bad, replace the hotbed.
Insufficient voltage output
Try opening the bottom cover of the printer (this will not affect the warranty period). Use a multimeter to measure whether the motherboard has a 24V voltage output. If not normal 24V, replace the power supply.
Printing stopped midway: The machine restarts when printing halfway
Insufficient Power Supply
SD card problem
Model‘s problems
After the heating button is clicked, the machine freezes or restarts.
Hotbed Problems
Heating rod problem
Power Supply is damaged
Insufficient Power Supply
SD card problem
Model‘s problems
Set The temperature of the hotbed to 50-60 degrees, re-leveling, and keep the distance between the nozzle and the hotbed at a thickness of A4 paper, coat the printing area with solid glue.
Multimeter usage
In many cases, we need to decide whether a component is faulty, or just wrongly installed. There are also situations where we need to decide which component exactly is to be replaced.
We are using the multimeter (multitester) for checking continuity, measuring resistance values of heaters and thermistors, and measuring the voltage coming from the PSU and going to the heaters.
If you don't have a multimeter, you can consider one that is similar to the ones below. The device does not have to be expensive. Only 10-15 USD/EUR will get you something that does the job just fine.
How to measure
To get started, we first have to properly connect the two measurement probe cables to the multimeter:
Where to measure
For every component, there are several options, our main focus will be on the connectors. The measurement appears on the multimeter LCD as soon as the measurement probes touch the component. To obtain the correct and relevant values, this is where you need to apply the probes:
Fuses or wires
Fuses can be checked by using the continuity feature on a multimeter. The only thing that will be checked is whether the component can conduct signals or power or not. By touching each of the measurement leads of the multimeter to the other end of the fuse or wire, a signal (beep or 0 value on the multimeter screen) will indicate that the component is intact and therefore, should work.
Resistance
Heaters
Thermistors
Voltage
Preheat error
The Preheat error message occurs when there is a problem with the preheat process before your print starts. Therefore, something is preventing the printer from heating up in proper time.
Make sure to distinguish between the Preheat error and the Bed preheat error.
Troubleshooting:
Preheat error
Bed preheat error
Testing the thermistor and heater
MAXTEMP
The MAXTEMP error occurs when at least one of the temperature readouts of the hotend or the heatbed is higher than 310°C. It is a safety feature which prevents the printer from overheating uncontrollably.
Troubleshooting
Preheat the nozzle!
The error message Preheat the nozzle! occurs when you are loading new filament and the nozzle did not reach the needed temperature to do so.
The minimum temperature for loading a new filament is 180°C. However, it is recommended to select the actual recommended printing temperature of the material you want to load in.
Troubleshooting
"File incomplete. Continue anyway?"
Our printers can detect a corrupted file on the SD card. A prompt appears on the screen, asking whether you would like to continue printing. Please check our article on how to test your G-codes before printing.
Blackout occurred. Resume printing?
The error message Blackout occurred. Recover print? appears if the power goes off for a longer period during printing, and the hotend and heatbed cool down. Therefore, the printer will wait for you to safely resume the print.
There is not much troubleshooting to do, so here's a couple of things you should check before resuming or canceling the print.
Troubleshooting
Please open idler and remove filament manually
The message on your LCD saying Please open idler and remove filament manually shows up when the extruder motor does not succeed to remove the filament from the hotend/extruder. Please do not panic, this can be solved very quickly and you do not need to abort the print.
If you get this error before a new print while you want to change the filament, first just try to load the filament again into the preheated hotend. The filament tip will melt again and it should be easier to remove it afterward. If that is unsuccessful, go through the following steps. Blackout occurred. Resume printing?
Bed leveling failed
The Bed leveling failed error appears when there is something wrong with the last stage of the calibration. This calibration is the last step of XYZ calibration and is performed before each print.
There can be three different error messages related to the Bed leveling failed:
Troubleshooting
The sensor didn't trigger. Debris on nozzle? Waiting for reset
The sensor triggered too high. Waiting for reset.
Sensor disconnected or cable broken. Waiting for reset.
Incomplete file - Testing if file ( .gcode) is complete
An incomplete file error message occurs when there is a problem with the generated G-code and it could potentially fail the whole print. The printer automatically looks for common G-codes which indicate the end of the generated file. If they are not detected, you will get a warning. You can continue printing if you wish, but you should probably examine the file.
Troubleshooting
How to prevent incomplete files (G-codes)?
Err: EXTR. FAN ERROR
The EXTR. FAN ERROR message appears when the extruder fan does not receive any RPM (Revolutions per Minute) readings, in other words, something is preventing it from spinning.
Troubleshooting
Err: PRINT FAN ERROR
PRINT FAN ERROR error message occurs when the print fan (the one at the front of the extruder) does not receive any RPM (Revolutions per Minute) readings. This can be caused by the fact that the fan does not spin, or by the signal (yellow) cable being interrupted.
Troubleshooting
Visually inspect the print fan and make sure there is no debris or pieces of filament tangled in it, preventing it from spinning. Bigger parts can be cleared with tweezers, dust can be cleared with a computer cleaner spray (canned air).
Connector
Broken wire
Error code "Thermal Runaway"
Thermistor does not stick to the heating block
T1 thermistor is damaged
Error code "T1 abnormal"
Loose wiring
T1 thermistor is damaged
Motherboard problem
Cable and adapter board problems
Preheat error (Heatbed)
Preheat error can happen with either with your Nozzle or Heated bed. So 1st make sure with which of these you have the problem.
Things to check:
How to find out if your Heater or Thermistor is defective for your Nozzle/ Heatbed?
Checking voltages and resistance
3D printers have their own vocabulary and words for describing their various parts and functions. If you are doing maintenance or about to seek help online, it is necessary to have the right words to describe your issue or problem. We have put together a list of words with explanation, covering most parts on the printer.
There are plenty of 3D printing filaments you can choose from. Each of them has its benefits and downsides and choice of material should be decided based on the application and geometry of the 3d-model.
They generally come in 2 different dimensions, 2.85 (known as "3mm" filaments) and 1.75mm.
In general, we can say, the better the mechanical properties they have, the higher the temperature is needed to put them into a malleable state. This can also increase the difficulty of printing.
Main filament groups
PLA group
In the PLA group, you can find the best materials for printing large detailed objects. It is well known for being easy to print and good looking (print details up to 50 microns). Generally, we can say this is the material you shall consider using if you are new to 3D printing.
PET group
It offers great thermal resistance for both indoor and outdoor use. It is reasonably easy to print. It does not warp and in general, is great for mechanical parts. In comparison to ABS, it is good looking and a little more flexible.
ABS group
In comparison to the PET group, ABS offers even higher thermal resistance up to 98°C. Also, it is impact resistant and can be dissolved with Acetone (which is great for connecting separate objects and making your prints smooth). However, it tends to warp and is quite difficult to print. Last but not least it produces an unpleasant smell when printing, that many people can't stand. A great alternative to ABS is its derivative ASA, with most of ABS's benefits and almost none of its challenges.
Flex group
This is the only group with which you can achieve almost perfect flexibility. Which makes it great for all kinds of shopping bag handles, phone cases or even RC car wheels. Flex (main material TPU) has very good abrasion resistance, remains flexible in cold environments, and is resistant to many solvents. Although at times it is quite difficult to print.
Support materials
So-called "support materials", like PVA, BVOH and HIPS, are used as dissolvable supports. With which you can achieve perfectly looking objects with odd shapes. Unlike basic supports, you can just easily dissolve them in water or limonene. Keep in mind that you can use these filaments only with the additional Multimaterial upgrade.
Composites
Composite materials consist of the main plastic base and a second material in the form of dust. This way it can simulate wood, steel, brass, etc. like finish. The only problem is that most of these filaments are Very abrasive.
Therefore you need a hardened steel nozzle (alternatively a Stainless-steel nozzle or a Ruby Nozzle)
PLA or Polylactic acid is the most commonly used filament. It is famously easy to print while being strong enough for most purposes. It represents the perfect choice for printing large objects, thanks to its low thermal expansion (little to no warping) and for printing tiny parts because of its low melting temperature. On top of it all, it is biodegradable, as it is made from the starch of plants such as corn, sugar cane, and sugar beet.
PLA has a relatively low melting temperature, at about 175 degrees Celsius. Unlike other materials, PLA can be heated past its melting point multiple times with minimal degradation. It’s also very hard material, but that also means it’s somewhat brittle. It has a lower layer of cohesiveness compared to other commonly used materials.
The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.
However, PLA is not a perfect material and, just like every other plastic, has some disadvantages. The low melting temperature also means low-temperature resistance. Parts made from PLA start losing their mechanical strength at temperatures over 60°C. This is also the reason why it has to be sanded wet during eventual post-processing.
The combination of being both biodegradable and having low-temperature resistance means that it’s not ideal for outdoor use, not to mention low UV-resistance. Also, PLA is only soluble in chemicals like chloroform or hot benzene. In order to connect two parts, you can use acetone or superglue.
Advantages
Disadvantages
Thermoplastic Polyurethane or TPU is referred to as the bridge between rubbers and plastics. The material appears rubber-like, which means it can be extremely flexible, durable and smooth to the touch. All these properties and compound versatility makes TPU widely used in many industries for coatings, components and customer goods. It is often used for 3D printing.
Advantages
Disadvantages
In 3D printing technology, usually Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) and Polylactic acid (PLA) are considered as standard plastics for printer filament but due to insufficient flexibility, they can’t be used in bending prototypes. On the other hand, TPU printing filament is flexible. It can bend easily without any effect on the design, strength and durability. A mild soap can be used for its cleaning.
TPU Flexible Filament Sizes and Storage
TPU 3D filament diameters are typically either 1.75mm or 3mm. Flexible TPU filaments can be stored in a cool airtight container. Container may also have a desiccant pack, so that filament bone remains dry. This container can also help in preventing the entry of dirt and dust particles, so that the filament could be used anytime for print. Although some type of TPUs are water-resistant, prolonged contact with water could result in degradation of the product.
Printing Specifications for TPU Flexible Filament
The print speed for flexible TPU filament should be in the range of 30 to 50 mm/sec. Layer thickness should be set above 0.1mm. Extrusion temperature can range from 200 to 220˚C with the heated bed platform set around 80 to 100˚C. For optimal results print flexible TPU filaments on direct extruders; Flexible TPU filaments can adhere well to most surfaces such as glass, aluminum, Kapton tape, and blue painters tape. It is important to always print in a well ventilated room regardless of the filament type.
Where your spools are located can make the difference between trouble and smooth operation of the printer. It is also often desirable to reduce the footprint of the printer as much as possible. Here are some pointers to where it is best to keep the spool and its holders according to our experience.
We do not recommend using 3d-prints as food-containers.
This is not a guide on how to make your 3D prints food-safe, but rather an outline of the range of issues related to "food-safe" 3d printing. We do not recommend using 3d-prints as food-containers etc!
Materials
Where can you get 3D models?
The best way to get started with 3D printing is to find pre-made models on the internet - they should be in the .stl or .obj format. Fortunately, 3D printing has fans all over the world, and there are some great websites, where you can download a large variety of awesome 3D models - ranging from a simple shaver holder to a detailed aircraft engine replica.
Our favorite sites with high-quality models
3D models are generally free to download under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non Commercial licenses (Models not to be used commercially. Otherwise, you must always include the name of the author). In some cases, you can download the models for a small fee and support the authors.
Preparing downloaded models for printing
Downloaded models usually come in stl., obj. or similar file formats. Before you can start printing them, you need to convert them into .gcode files first, using a slicer.
Normally it takes 5-10 minutes.The more skilled, the shorter the time.
It mostly result from that the fixed screw is not tightened, please reinforce the fixed screw.
Adjust the eccentric nut at the V wheel of the hot bed, if it is too loose, it will shake, if it is too tight, it will stagnate.
Sovol3D SVO1, It's 240*280*300mm.
Sovol3D SVO2, It's 240X280X300mm(Single color) / 240X240X300mm(Dual color).
The standard configuration is a 0.4mm nozzle, which can support an accuracy range of 0.1-0.4mm
Sovol3D SV01, It's a single nozzle structure and does not support two-color printing.
Sovol3D SV02, It's a single nozzle structure and does support two-color printing.
Sovol3d's 3D printers currently support only 1.75mm in diameter filaments.
PLA、TPU and and other linear filaments are supported.
Offline printing and online printing are supported, offline printing is generally recommended.
The overall rated power of the machine is 270W, and the power consumption is low.
The highest temperature is 250℃.
The highest temperature is 100℃.
Yes, it does.
Yes, double Z-axis screw.
Currently it only supports English mode.
Currently it only support Windows7/10/MAC.
Printing speed 50-60mm/s is the best.
BLtouch can be purchased separately for installation and please note that the firmware also needs to be refreshed.
After turning on the power, press the boat switch to start.
You could turn off the printer if you don't need to continue printing the model.
Turn the knob to select the item, press the knob to confirm.
Please refer to the leveling part in the unboxing video on youtube.
Turn on "Preparation"-PLA preheating, or turn on "Control"-manually set the temperature, and finally wait for the temperature to rise.
Start-control-temperature- set sprinkler temperature at 200 degrees, cut the front end of the filament at a 45-degree angle, and straighten the front section,pass through the broken detection device firstly, and then press the extrusion clamp to move the filament along the extruder into the Teflon tube until it flows out of the nozzle.
Keep the nozzle at 200 degrees, pinch the extrusion clamp, push the old consumables forward, then quickly pull out, and then install the new filament.
You can rest assured the machine can print up to 200 hours continuously.
The printer has the function of resume printing, it can continue printing after the power is on.
The printer has a function of material breakage detection. When the filaments are exhausted, it will automatically stop printing after the material breakage is detected. It is generally recommended to replace more filaments in advance when printing at night.
After detecting the material breakage, the machine will continue to execute the currently running instruction, and the printing will be completely stopped after the execution of this instruction.
Normal room temperature is sufficient. If the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees, the temperature of the hot bed needs to be increased to about 60 degrees for printing.
ABS has a high demand for temperature, and it needs to be in a constant temperature environment when printing. It is generally not recommended to print directly.
Because the nozzle is heated to a high temperature, children and the elderly need to use it under the guidance of someone to avoid burns.
Move the X/Y axis back and forth or feel the tension of the belt with your hands, if it stuck, it's too tight. if it keep shaking, it 's too loose.
Turn off the stepper motor to manually move the nozzle.
0.4mm by default, other specifications such as 0.2, 0.6, 0.8 can be replaced.
Mainly to enhance the stability of the machine during operation.
The machine does not produce too much noise when working.
It have greater stability with the Titan near-end feeding.
The progress percentage value and time display on the display can be used as a reference.
When moving the nozzle, the belt drives the motor to rotate and cut the magnetic induction line, thereby generating current to light the screen. The current generated at this time is very small and safe, which is normal.
There is a protection program in the firmware of the printer. The E-axis extrusion motor will not work if the nozzle temperature does not reach a certain temperature. For this printer, nozzle temperature should be above 185 degrees.
Just like installing WeChat, Click on the software installation package and follow the prompts to proceed to "Next"
Or refer this:
https://sovol3d.com/apps/help-center#!hc-curaexe-installation
https://sovol3d.com/blogs/news/thank-you-for-sharing-on-youtube
The other versions of Cura and Simplify are all suitable.
Only support models with STL, OBJ and AMF format.
The file suffix in Gcode format shall prevail finally.
Go to the Sovol3D website and find the slicing software in the SUPPORT-DOWNLOAD to download
Layer height 0.15mm, wall thickness 1.2mm, top layer bottom layer thickness 1.2mm, filling 15%~25%, printing speed 50~60, nozzle temperature 200~210, hot bed 45~55, support type (full supports), platform attachment Type (bottom grid), retracting speed 80, retracting length 6~8mm, other parameters can be kept as default.
Local support only adds support from hot bed to the model. The support between the model and the previous part of the model will not be added. It is generally recommended to use full support directly.
Open the software to find "add model/printer", select "Custom", enter the size of the machine that needs to be added. Note that the nozzle aperture column needs to be consistent with the actual nozzle aperture of the machine, and then tick the hot bed option.
It can be imported through the open/import model function in the file, or you can directly drag the model into the software.
Select the model, you can see an icon to modify the size in the lower-left corner or left side of the interface, click to unlock to modify the size in a single direction. It is zoomed in the same proportion after locking.
Select the model, you can see a rotation icon in the lower left corner or left side of the interface, you can modify the angle of the corresponding axis.
Roll the mouse wheel to zoom in and out of the view, hold down the wheel to drag the view to move.
Press and hold the right mouse button.
Setting based on the nozzle multiple, for example: 0.4 nozzle, setting 0.8/1.2 is appropriate.
The nozzle temperature is 200-210℃， and the hot bed is 45-55℃.
Turn on the function of Z-axis lifting when retraction is enabled, and set the lifting height to 0.2mm.
Adjust the retraction speed and retraction length, speed 50-80mm/s, length 6-8mm;
Refer to the appropriate printing temperature range of filaments, do not overly high.
The support itself has a small contact surface, and it is difficult to directly bond with the platform directly. Adding a base to the model can solve this problem.
Open the tool options in the menu bar to switch modes.
You can use the "Save Gcode file" in the file or click the save icon in the middle of the upper left corner of the interface.
When it is found that the filament is not enough to complete the printing, just change the filament in time.
Regularly clean the fan blades, regularly apply lubricant (grease) to the lead screw, and regularly clean the throat (3-6 months).
Tighten the eccentric nut and adjust the hot bed platform nut.
Heat the hot bed to 60~70 degrees, and then shovel by the edge with a spatula.
The SO-1 pen plotter is a new product developed by Sovol 3D, which specializes in developing, producing, and online retailing 3d printer and other related products.
SO-1 is capable of writing or drawing on paper, cards, book pages, and any flat surface. It can write with your favorite pens and markers.
SO-1 is designed to serve a wide variety of everyday and specialized drawing and writing needs. You can use it to make many creative drawings and other interesting arts. It's a great machine that can help you draw beautiful pictures and there is no need to purchase inks for it as long as you have a pen.
For more information, please visit our website.
Pen Plotter
AC/DC Adaptor
TF Card & Adaptor
Board set
Knurled-Head Thumb Nut （Qty:4）
Servo Motor
SO-1 XY Plotter Circuit Wiring
SO-1 Screen Information:
SO-1 Control main menu:
SO-1 Quick Start:
1. Place the machine on a stable desktop or flat surface.
2. Connect the power jack.
3. Manually move the two axes to a clear area above the drawing board.
![SO-1 quick start steps 4, Follow the Screen Info and select the [Pen down] option.](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0051/5548/7832/files/SO-1_quick_start_steps_4.jpg?v=1593243387)
4. Follow the Screen Info and select the [Pen down] option.
5. Insert a pen and make the pen tip touch the paper. Then lock the hand screw.
![SO-1 quick start steps 6, On the screen, select [Auto home] to move the plotter to its origin.](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0051/5548/7832/files/SO-1_quick_start_steps_6.jpg?v=1593243387)
6. On the screen, select [Auto home] to move the plotter to its origin.
![SO-1 quick start steps 7, Insert the TF card, select [Plot from TF] and choose one sample to test the machine. Then you can start to install the software and enjoy the art world.](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0051/5548/7832/files/SO-1_quick_start_steps_7.jpg?v=1593243387)
7. Insert the TF card, select [Plot from TF] and choose one sample to test the machine.
Then you can start to install the software and enjoy the art world.
Inkscape SO-1 1.0 Operation Guide:
1, Install Inkscape SO-1 and run.
（Please download the software from our official website https://sovol3d.com/pages/download）
2, Follow the steps and create a wireframe sphere.
3, You can drag the arrows to change the size and shape of your object.
4, Now we need to convert the Object to Path.
5, This window provides machine-related parameter settings and values. Click "apply" after filling in the proper values.
6, You will find the Gcode file in your direction folder as shown. The last step is to copy it into your SD card and start the plotting.
Aside from the most common applications, Sovol3D SO-1 is used by a genuinely diverse range of people, including (to name a few):
The Sovol3D S0-1 is a pen plotter, which is a type of simple robot. Its sole function is to guide a pen (or other implement mounted in the pen holder) along with the set of vector lines, curves, and paths that you ask it to follow. Everything that the machine is ultimately capable of, such as drawing graphics, writing text, or signing documents, are expressions of this basic function. It is capable of drawing essentially anything that can be composed of a set of lines.
In practice, this is much like using a traditional printer, except that you need to take care that your documents are made of paths, rather than pixels.
The Sovol3D SO-1 is an extremely versatile machine, designed to serve a wide variety of everyday and specialized drawing and writing needs. You can use it for almost any task that might normally be carried out with a handheld pen.
The most common uses are:
Sovol3D SO-1 does not require proprietary pens or ink: you can use your pens, chosen within certain guidelines.
Sovol3D SO-1 can hold most types of pens and similar instruments up to 5/8" (16 mm) diameter. (A larger XL Pen Clip is available as well to fit larger pens.)
Good choices for pens to use include fountain pens, permanent markers, liquid-ink rollerball pens, technical pens, small-bodied whiteboard markers and other writing and drawing instruments that do not require significant downward pressure. While we refer to writing and drawing instruments as “pens” to be concise, other instruments such as automatic pencils (particularly with soft lead), chalk, charcoal, and brushes can also work well in many cases.
Sovol3D SO-1 does not require a special paper; you can use almost any kind and size of paper. (You can even use all kinds of things that are not paper.)
The XY travel (printable area) of the Sovol3D SO-1 is just over that of both US letter (8½ × 11”) and A4 paper sizes. The larger size models have about twice this travel.
You can work with any size of paper up to the size of the travel area. You can write directly onto small pieces like business cards (or a whole array of them), medium size pieces envelopes and note cards, or sheets of paper.
Calligraphy is not the same in any sense as (for example) simply using computer fonts or plotting a drawing. Calligraphy generally involves individually sculpted letter shapes, and in many cases pen movements that are far more complex than Sovol3D SO-1 can provide.
That said, some calligraphers do use Sovol3D SO-1 for low-end busywork (say, addressing hundreds of place cards), saving some wear on their wrists, and presumably passing along some of the cost savings.
The Sovol3D SO-1 is designed for moving a pen, not a carving or cutting tool. It does not have the type of rigidity that you need for carving, nor the ability to apply significant downward force.
Sovol3D SO-1 can be used with whatever fonts are on your computer, so long as the text is converted to paths before plotting.
We do not recommend it!
The Sovol3D SO-1 is designed to work on flat surfaces, and we do not test them in the vertical orientation. That said, quite a few Sovol3D SO-1 users have mounted theirs to the wall without apparent difficulty.
One issue to consider is that the Sovol3D SO-1's pen holder normally rests the pen on the writing surface by its weight alone. On the wall, you'll need an alternative to gravity for lowering the pen. The typical solution is a rubber band.
1. It is possible to happen if you set up the wrong paper size in the software, or did not [Auto Home]. Please make sure the paper size is A4, letter, or less.
2. Use the [Auto Home] function before starting a new drawing.
1. Check the wire connection.
2.The damage of the servo motor. Servo motor does wear out over time, depending on how often you use the machine. We have prepared one spare servo motor for you.
