The bed leveling problem
1. First check whether the fixing screws of the beam on the top of the gantry frame (refer to the picture, there are 4 pieces in total) are tightened, and whether there is a tilt in the installation, you can try to use a wrench to reinforce it.
2. Check again whether the fixing screws of the hotbed (refer to the picture) are tightened, you can try to use a wrench to reinforce it.
3. After checking the reinforcement, restore the factory settings first, refresh the firmware, and then try to run Auto Z-align and Leveling Bed, that is, re-leveling.
Firmware: https://sovol3d.com/pages/download
Flash firmware video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6l253OJa34&list=PLR9JZRQ01t7lgsgEfBYiTzZKhnPCwkUZ6&index=27
Leveling tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YOPNDGI8mk&list=PLR9JZRQ01t7lgsgEfBYiTzZKhnPCwkUZ6&index=14&t=11s
4. Disassemble the hotbed part, measure them separately with a ruler, and compare the isolation columns, hotbed and bottom slider plate. Check if the length of the 5 isolation columns (refer to picture) under the hotbed are the same.
Disassembly hotbed tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD0WjAVfhRc&list=PLR9JZRQ01t7lgsgEfBYiTzZKhnPCwkUZ6&index=29
5. Use a ruler to measure the hotbed and the bottom slider board separately, and check whether three A4 papers can pass through the gap (refer to the picture).
The under-extrusion problem
It may be that the nozzle has a blockage situation or the leveling is not adjusted properly, the nozzle and the hot bed are too close to each other can also have an effect. You can use a needle to clean the filaments that may be blocked on the nozzle under heating, and use the smallest wrench to clean the filaments that may be clogged in the heat break part like sending filaments. First restore the factory settings and then refer to the leveling video for re-leveling.
Leveling video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YOPNDGI8mk&list=PLR9JZRQ01t7lgsgEfBYiTzZKhnPCwkUZ6&index=15&t=11s
Thermal Runaway and Heating Failure
1. Check whether the heating wire and thermistor wire of the hotbed are firmly plugged in and whether they are damaged.
2. You can change the heating wire and thermistor of the hotbed to the position of the nozzle, and then set the heating to 60 degrees to try. (Because of the exchange, it is necessary to set the heating nozzle, but it is the hotbed that actually heats up.)
3. Please use a multimeter to check whether there is 24V DC voltage output in the position in the picture after operating the hotbed command.
If the print sticks, it reaches some high and then does a massive layer shift like the whole Z assembly is bent because it happen always at the same point and the print fails.
You can slow down the printing speed to print, and then check whether the coupling that fixes the Z-axis motor shaft and the screw rod and the screw that fixes the T-nut of the screw rod are loose. Lock them tightly to ensure that the motor shaft and screw are moving synchronously. Then check whether the screw rod is bent. If it is bent, remove it and put it on the table for comparison with a ruler, and then provide us with a picture of the bend for confirmation.
The heat creep problem (The print fails in some middle points, sometimes higher or lower points.)
1. Because the uneven heat dissipation of bi-metal may cause thermal creep, the temperature of the melted PLA of the bi-metal heat break will be about 10-20 lower than the normal temperature. We have also verified that the nozzle temperature of 175-180° can melt and extrude ordinary PLA normally. You can check whether the retraction distance is too long, the standard is about 0.5mm-0.8mm, and you can also increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10° appropriately for printing.
2. If the nozzle is blocked, you can use a needle to clean the filaments that may be clogged on the nozzle under heating, and use the smallest wrench to clean up the filaments that may be clogged in the heat break part like sending filaments.
3. You can disassemble the extrusion mechanism and clean up the filaments left on the gear. Check whether the extrusion gear is loose and the discharge is not smooth, and lock the screw that fixes the gear. The extrusion is not smooth, and the situation of blockage will affect the printing.
Reference video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFIRd1ZH81I&t=3s
After a power outage, the display is blank. It powers on and goes to a blank blue screen.
1. You can first remove the screen and put it on the table. Except for the screen cable, keep it away from contact with other metal parts of the machine, and then try flashing the firmware.
2. Refer to the part of flashing the motherboard firmware in the video, and format the TF card and set the format according to the requirements.
Firmware: https://sovol3d.com/pages/download
Reference video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqaneIsSauM
Collider when goes the auto home
1. The x-axis timing belt is too tight, you need to loosen the timing belt properly.
2. The sensitivity of the x-axis is not appropriate, you can increase or decrease it appropriately.
Reference video: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/18QIKk514ca-xP7NLjLCiwjyvVsjSfxmE?usp=sharing
No response to the impact for X-axis goes auto home
1. Because it adopts the limitless switch mode, it is normal that occasionally there will be no response to the impact and slow response during the auto home process. Please follow the steps to adjust it.
2. If the belt is too loose or too tight, it will affect the auto home. First adjust the tightness of the belt to an appropriate level (generally, it can move smoothly), and then try to auto home.
3. If there is still no response to the impact or the response is slow, you can increase the sensitivity value of the corresponding direction (X or Y), increase by 1~5 each time, return to the previous level and press save, and then auto home again for testing.
(Operation steps: Configuration→Advanced Settings→TMC Drivers→Sensorless Homing→Store Settings)
Motherboard fan noise
Try to disassemble the cover of the motherboard, and check whether there are foreign objects inside the motherboard fan or abnormal noise caused by cables interfering with the motherboard fan.
The X-rail bearings are noisy and unstable, and there is noise when the z-axis prints quickly.
These are normal phenomena and do not affect printing. The machine itself is like this. If you feel that the friction is too much, you can add a little lubricant.
The Z axis does not run smoothly
1. Check whether the screw fixing the wire rod on the coupling (1 in the picture) is loose, and ensure that the wire rod and the motor run synchronously.
2. Check whether the T-shaped nut (2 places in the picture) is loose, whether there are sundries, and whether the bearing at the optical axis (3 in the picture) has any sundries.
3. Is there any problem with printing random models? Please provide a video of the z-axis not running smoothly when printing.
Coupling cannot be locked
Adjust the position and lock the screws on the coupling tightly (as shown in the picture). The lower screw is to lock the motor shaft, the upper screw is to lock the wire rod.
During auto home, the z-axis direction will only move upwards.
1. Is the sensor light on? If not, check to see if the connection wires are loose.
2. If the light is on, you can initialize the machine and try again.
The specifications of the two extruder fans on the SV06 (hot end & parts cooling fans)
Axial flow fan 24V 4010 (wiring with terminals) 4010 Hydraulic axial flow fan 24V 5500 rpm ±15%, 2.5 terminals 100mm outside the red and black frame
80 comments
Jacob C
Hi,
It seems that the filament is stuck in the extruder. I’ve tried to change filament using the printer option but it will not budge. It’s almost like something within the extruder i snot grasping it and pushing it out the top. Any thoughts on what could help without taking a part the extruder? Is there someone you can send out here to help?
Thanks,
Jacob C
Hi,
It seems that the filament is stuck in the extruder. I’ve tried to change filament using the printer option but it will not budge. It’s almost like something within the extruder i snot grasping it and pushing it out the top. Any thoughts on what could help without taking a part the extruder? Is there someone you can send out here to help?
Thanks,
Jacob C
Joseph Felix
Hello, I turned on my Sovol SV06 today and my screen won’t change from all black :( I’ve tried to re-flash the firmware, but the screen stays blank.
What can I do?
Hello, I turned on my Sovol SV06 today and my screen won’t change from all black :( I’ve tried to re-flash the firmware, but the screen stays blank.
What can I do?
Nikki Wilson
Oh yea, and no word back from Sovol yet…
Oh yea, and no word back from Sovol yet…
Nikki Wilson
Okay Mark wins the prize. I would’ve tried a different SD card if I had one and even though my PC indicated the factory card was working perfectly. Instead, I found a replacement factory system board on Amazon for $32 and it arrived at lunch today. While I was waiting for it, I disassembled the entire machine and took out the old system board. I then rebuilt the machine once I had correctly packed all the linear bearings with my fav moly grease. All the bearings were bone dry from the factory which is a situation you are left to rectify. You cannot spread some grease on the rods and hope to lube the bearings – they must be removed and packed. Period. Failure to do so will have all sorts of nasty side effects ending in the machine’s premature demise. In any case installed the new mobo and started her up and, she worked but thought she was an Ender 3. So I was again compelled to flash the correct firmware on her and once again it failed, hung and was left with the dreaded BBS. Wow, how is it possible that a basic operation like flashing updated firmware could brick the machine. I happened to look back at this page and so Mark’s comment about replacing the SD card. And even though the facts were ruling that out as a possible cause, that in fact, turned out to be the cause. Unbefrickenlievable!!
And looking on the bright side, I now have a spare system board, a new working SD card, a fully and correctly lubricated machine and can get started with the business of tweaking settings / parameters in order to successfully print a variety of materials to manufacture functional parts. Whew!
Okay Mark wins the prize. I would’ve tried a different SD card if I had one and even though my PC indicated the factory card was working perfectly. Instead, I found a replacement factory system board on Amazon for $32 and it arrived at lunch today. While I was waiting for it, I disassembled the entire machine and took out the old system board. I then rebuilt the machine once I had correctly packed all the linear bearings with my fav moly grease. All the bearings were bone dry from the factory which is a situation you are left to rectify. You cannot spread some grease on the rods and hope to lube the bearings – they must be removed and packed. Period. Failure to do so will have all sorts of nasty side effects ending in the machine’s premature demise. In any case installed the new mobo and started her up and, she worked but thought she was an Ender 3. So I was again compelled to flash the correct firmware on her and once again it failed, hung and was left with the dreaded BBS. Wow, how is it possible that a basic operation like flashing updated firmware could brick the machine. I happened to look back at this page and so Mark’s comment about replacing the SD card. And even though the facts were ruling that out as a possible cause, that in fact, turned out to be the cause. Unbefrickenlievable!!
And looking on the bright side, I now have a spare system board, a new working SD card, a fully and correctly lubricated machine and can get started with the business of tweaking settings / parameters in order to successfully print a variety of materials to manufacture functional parts. Whew!
Mark
I fixed blue screen. The given SD card is junk. Buy a new SD card and re flash the system.
I fixed blue screen. The given SD card is junk. Buy a new SD card and re flash the system.
Mike
Reading here makes me sad :-(
Reading here makes me sad :-(
Nikki Wilson
All my attempts to help my SV06 have failed. After I read a number of comments on this page describing a similar experience, I have dubbed this the dreaded Blank Blue Screen syndrome or BBS for short. I was forced to contact Sovol and requested an RMA system board. I don’t know if they’ll do that, or maybe they have a magic solution their keeping to themselves, but I do know that after the complete setup, I don’t want to now disassemble, re-pack and ship the thing back and do some more waiting. So let’s see what they do next…
All my attempts to help my SV06 have failed. After I read a number of comments on this page describing a similar experience, I have dubbed this the dreaded Blank Blue Screen syndrome or BBS for short. I was forced to contact Sovol and requested an RMA system board. I don’t know if they’ll do that, or maybe they have a magic solution their keeping to themselves, but I do know that after the complete setup, I don’t want to now disassemble, re-pack and ship the thing back and do some more waiting. So let’s see what they do next…
Nikki Wilson
FYI- SV06
After complete successful setup, machine hung when performing firmware update. Power cycled and the machine would not boot (blank blue screen). Verified correct operation of SD media, retired firmware update with same results. The machine is bricked. I’m now trying other various means of resurrecting it. I’ll update this thread with any findings. My guess is bad SD card reader on the mobo.
FYI- SV06
After complete successful setup, machine hung when performing firmware update. Power cycled and the machine would not boot (blank blue screen). Verified correct operation of SD media, retired firmware update with same results. The machine is bricked. I’m now trying other various means of resurrecting it. I’ll update this thread with any findings. My guess is bad SD card reader on the mobo.
Mendy Hooks
I just assembled the printer and when I turned it on for the first time, I get a blank blue screen. What do I need to do to get it working?
I just assembled the printer and when I turned it on for the first time, I get a blank blue screen. What do I need to do to get it working?
bob ross
My sovol sv06 is making a weird noise with the direct drive every time it goes up a layer. The filament goes in and out of the nozzle box at the same time the sound is made.
My sovol sv06 is making a weird noise with the direct drive every time it goes up a layer. The filament goes in and out of the nozzle box at the same time the sound is made.
dale hering
I have two problems.
1) Z-axis sensor is loose. Discovered there is no locking screw on the holder.
2) Power button has stopped working. Machine is always on and I must remove the power cord to turn off.
Thank you for your attention,
Dale Hering
I have two problems.
1) Z-axis sensor is loose. Discovered there is no locking screw on the holder.
2) Power button has stopped working. Machine is always on and I must remove the power cord to turn off.
Thank you for your attention,
Dale Hering
Raymond Yen
The bed failed to heat up. What is the impedance of the NTC at room temperature? On the failed unit, it measured >100k ohms.
The bed failed to heat up. What is the impedance of the NTC at room temperature? On the failed unit, it measured >100k ohms.
Marcelo
Hi there! I just received my SV06 today, but I am having trouble with it. When I turn it on, all I get is a blue screen and nothing else. Has anyone experienced this issue before? Can someone please advise me on what I can do to fix it? Thank you in advance.
Hi there! I just received my SV06 today, but I am having trouble with it. When I turn it on, all I get is a blue screen and nothing else. Has anyone experienced this issue before? Can someone please advise me on what I can do to fix it? Thank you in advance.
cyril bayonas
bonjour ma table chauffante semble être excentrer , la ise en niveaux des 25 point est décaler donc quand elle arrive au point 20/25 elle craque pour sortir de la table chauffante . que faire ??
bonjour ma table chauffante semble être excentrer , la ise en niveaux des 25 point est décaler donc quand elle arrive au point 20/25 elle craque pour sortir de la table chauffante . que faire ??
toni
tengo una sv06
Queria saber el heater de que potencia es 24v 50w o 60w, y si se puede instalar el sensor de filamento, y si hay que actualizar el soft
tengo una sv06
Queria saber el heater de que potencia es 24v 50w o 60w, y si se puede instalar el sensor de filamento, y si hay que actualizar el soft
tony lattimore
Getting error message " heating failed E1 printer halted please reset " How?
Getting error message " heating failed E1 printer halted please reset " How?
wayne
starting to wish i didnt come here to read this after my purchase…
starting to wish i didnt come here to read this after my purchase…
Mark
My z axis just raises to the top. Won’t go down
My z axis just raises to the top. Won’t go down
Robert
Order # 30017 I have not received any update since order confirmation just curious on status.
Order # 30017 I have not received any update since order confirmation just curious on status.
Bradley
I would really recommend adding a step in the instructions to check which voltage the power supply is setup to use.
I would really recommend adding a step in the instructions to check which voltage the power supply is setup to use.
Phiippe
Thermal run away default, the hot bed is cool.
I had this default a few days ago, it was due to the black wire to bring the – 24 v to the heating resistor de cut inside the isolation!
I fixed it, It worked.
But today I still had “thermal run away” again,
After reseting the machine
I checked the voltage between the +&- while asking the printer to heat the bed, I could see the 24 V voltage on the output connector, but after a short time this voltage drop to zero!
I restarted the printed tree times and still had the same default.
I’m stuck, is this printer reliable? I have some doubts.
Thermal run away default, the hot bed is cool.
I had this default a few days ago, it was due to the black wire to bring the – 24 v to the heating resistor de cut inside the isolation!
I fixed it, It worked.
But today I still had “thermal run away” again,
After reseting the machine
I checked the voltage between the +&- while asking the printer to heat the bed, I could see the 24 V voltage on the output connector, but after a short time this voltage drop to zero!
I restarted the printed tree times and still had the same default.
I’m stuck, is this printer reliable? I have some doubts.
jonny whiteway
SV06 prints not aligning, everything prints to the right side of the heat bed, level calibration, prints all off center. Seems home offsets are out of alignment, not sure what to do?
SV06 prints not aligning, everything prints to the right side of the heat bed, level calibration, prints all off center. Seems home offsets are out of alignment, not sure what to do?
Lamont
I am a beginner 3-D printer. I bought a sovol svo6 printer and I’ve been trying to use it with Prusa slicer and can’t figure out how to program it. The Cura slicer that came with the printer my pc or laptop doesn’t support I need help installing the software to prusa
I am a beginner 3-D printer. I bought a sovol svo6 printer and I’ve been trying to use it with Prusa slicer and can’t figure out how to program it. The Cura slicer that came with the printer my pc or laptop doesn’t support I need help installing the software to prusa
Karina Wolffe
My Soval-06 wasn’t doing he z-step offset correctly so I updated & re-flashed the . Now when I try to print he print head goes o he near left corner & grinds & grinds, then thuds a couple of times & goes back o grinding.
After a minute or 2 I just shut it down. I’ve tried several different files & all with the same result.
I can’t find anything similar in the above examples ha sounds like my problem.
Any help would be appreciated.
My Soval-06 wasn’t doing he z-step offset correctly so I updated & re-flashed the . Now when I try to print he print head goes o he near left corner & grinds & grinds, then thuds a couple of times & goes back o grinding.
After a minute or 2 I just shut it down. I’ve tried several different files & all with the same result.
I can’t find anything similar in the above examples ha sounds like my problem.
Any help would be appreciated.
Travis
My printer did not have the zip tie installed on the cable that connects to the hotbed, resulting in one of the wires snapping at the solder.
My printer did not have the zip tie installed on the cable that connects to the hotbed, resulting in one of the wires snapping at the solder.
Witold
Hi! I have the same problem as Natalie above. After firmware update to V2.0.0A my printer stopped seeing first row of the table, everything is somehow shifted one row back, so even during bed leveling it goes twice the last row and misses the first one…
Hi! I have the same problem as Natalie above. After firmware update to V2.0.0A my printer stopped seeing first row of the table, everything is somehow shifted one row back, so even during bed leveling it goes twice the last row and misses the first one…
Dan
I also have the problem where the printer tried to punch down through the bead and then dragged the head across scraping off the bed surface. My bed is now ruined. I followed the leveling instructions many times, eventually getting the z-offest to not scrape the bed. Sometime when I try bed leveling the head goes to the x,y=0,0 and just stops there. I can get it to work if I try three or four times.
I like the printer when it works correctly. Most of the time it does work fine. When it fails it ruins the bed.
I also have the problem where the printer tried to punch down through the bead and then dragged the head across scraping off the bed surface. My bed is now ruined. I followed the leveling instructions many times, eventually getting the z-offest to not scrape the bed. Sometime when I try bed leveling the head goes to the x,y=0,0 and just stops there. I can get it to work if I try three or four times.
I like the printer when it works correctly. Most of the time it does work fine. When it fails it ruins the bed.
Andrew Charles Morrish
all was working well until the second print, the nozell jammed itself into the bed and scored a line into it clogging the tip of the nozel,
now every time i set the z offset. it take 3 attempts for it to sit correctly. set for .2mm, save, auto home jams the nozel into the bed
all was working well until the second print, the nozell jammed itself into the bed and scored a line into it clogging the tip of the nozel,
now every time i set the z offset. it take 3 attempts for it to sit correctly. set for .2mm, save, auto home jams the nozel into the bed
steven allen
first printer every thing was going fine until probe z offset and nozzle willnot lower than .6mm
first printer every thing was going fine until probe z offset and nozzle willnot lower than .6mm
Natalie
Hello, I’m reaching out in regards to the sovol 06 I bought recently and just finished setting up I’ve tried leveling the printer but only leveled 2/25 for the z and the printer will not move at all towards the bed. So it prints a good 2 inches away from the bed the auto offset doesn’t really fix this problem to adjust the height. When it tries to level it makes this very loud screech when it hits the top of the printer. Could you help me figure out my problem
Hello, I’m reaching out in regards to the sovol 06 I bought recently and just finished setting up I’ve tried leveling the printer but only leveled 2/25 for the z and the printer will not move at all towards the bed. So it prints a good 2 inches away from the bed the auto offset doesn’t really fix this problem to adjust the height. When it tries to level it makes this very loud screech when it hits the top of the printer. Could you help me figure out my problem